Wearables University
By Tonia Cook Kimbrough
The Lowdown on Leather Terms
A top-level look at terminology to describe leather types and treatments
With cold weather comes demand for leather apparel. Do you know the right terms to describe the leather goods you offer to clients? For a solid grounding, visit the American Leather Chemists Association (ALCA) at www.leatherchemists.org. While the site includes more technical analysis than is necessary for general salespeople, you'll find a handy glossary of everything from types of leather to its many finishes.
The finish of leather, according to the ALCA, relates to "materials applied to the grain and sometimes split surface of the leather to cover blemishes, create smoothness and give uniformity of color and appearance which may vary from dull to glossy." A split describes the part of the hide beneath the grain side that has been sliced into two or more thicknesses.
The grain of a hide refers to the hair side of the skin. Full-grain leather has the original grain surface of the skin. Don't confuse this with grained leather, which has been manipulated to appear to have the markings of a natural grain. The ACLA defines top grain as "the first cut taken from the grain side of a split hide from which nothing except the hair and associated epidermis has been removed."
How To Spot The Next Color Trend
Top-level advice for forecasting hot colors ahead of the curve
If you want to be a true color czar, boldly leading your clients to the next trend in hue, then tune in to your surroundings. The ability to forecast color comes mainly from one's attention to what occurs in society. Here are seven sources to watch for emerging colors:
1. Consumer concerns. When issues take hold in the buying public's collective mind, you can bet there will be a color consequence. Eco-consciousness offers an excellent example of this domino effect. As environmentally friendly products grow in popularity, so do earthy colors, from reddish shades of clay to grassy greens and sky blues.
2.Store displays. Let the pros do the work for you. Retailers and their merchandisers look ahead to pinpoint the hot colors that will bring in hue-hungry buyers. If a Macy's window dressing drips in purple, expect it to infiltrate the promotional apparel market.
3. International infatuations. Go global with your color watching. As cultural influences like Bollywood from India make a splash in American movies and dance, there will also be a nod in fashion. Another example: Watch for the colors of hosting nations for the Olympics. When Beijing hosted, for example, red enjoyed a surge in popularity.
4. Vintage vibe. Whatever the retro decade du jour happens to be, revisit its color trends. Now that the 1980s enjoy renewed status, neons are back. When the 1960s were rocking retailers, those luscious avocado greens freshened up apparel.
5. Political pointers. As patriotism rises, so do red, white and blue. Look to election years for strong, traditional color cues.
6. General mood. This tip-off is a bit tough. The influence can swing in either direction. Sometimes you'll see color inspiration mirror the tone of the country's general mood. For example, as the recession deepened in fall 2008, designers began introducing somber colors to their 2009 collections. On the flip side, colors can be used as a foil to mood. Warm shades and pastels, for example, clearly brighten apparel for those hungry to lighten the temperament of the times.
7. Demographic directions. Examine the color creativity of movers and shakers. Typically, urban youths will be among the first demographic groups to test a color. Follow their fashion, film, street presence and music videos for a peek at what could become mainstream with a bit of time and tempering.
Key Colors by Decade
What goes around comes around. Here are some key colors by decade that could make a comeback as culture comes full circle:
• 1950s – light pink and aqua
• 1960s – gold and avocado green
• 1970s – earthy browns and oranges
• 1980s – teal and mauve
• 1990s – olive greens and royal blue
A "Just Right" Fit for Suit Jackets
An advanced-level guide to achieving proper fit for suit jackets
The professionalism of a front-line worker, whether it's a hotel concierge or an airline pilot, is conveyed by their appearance. A properly fitting suit jacket sets a tone of authority.
"The first step in determining the proper fit is to know your height," advises Taraynn Lloyd, spokesperson for Edwards Garment (asi/51752). "Just knowing how tall you are will help sort out the proper sizing of the jacket. For example, if you are a 6-foot-tall male, you'd want to look at ‘tall' blazers and suit coats. After you've made the selection of a tall suit coat, you want to measure your chest size. The inch measurement of your chest will determine your suit coat needs. For example, a good portion of men are size 40R (regular) or 40T (tall)."
Ask your supplier for a size scale, which will be a guide for determining your choice. For certainty in sizing a workforce, order some sample suit coats to create a fit line. Individuals can then easily try on the coat to determine if that size will provide a great fit or if they need to go up or down the scale.
When trying on jackets, you'll want to evaluate whether there's a proper fit across the shoulders. This is important for both comfort and image. "I'm sure we all can remember when mom took us to the tailor to purchase our first suit coat," Lloyd says. "We all tried it on and then she would have us button it up and then perform the butterfly stroke in the store. It wasn't that mom wanted to embarrass us, but rather she just wanted to make sure that our suit coat had enough room or the fabric provided enough stretch to ensure a comfortable fit.
Today's wool-blend fabrics are designed with some stretch, but again it is the preference of the wearer to have either a more or less fitting suit coat."
Tip – Avoid high-water wrist or the drowned look of missing hands. The rule of thumb is that the jacket sleeves should end comfortably at the wrist when your arms are at your side. Ask if the jacket you're considering has a sleeve allowance for tailoring. Edwards Garment (asi/51752), for example, provides suit coats with a 2" sleeve allowance in case individuals need to shorten the length of their jacket sleeves for a better fit or to properly reveal shirt cuffs.
TONIA COOK KIMBROUGH is a contributing writer based in FL.